Strikemaster II Pro - Still The Best offering To Repair And Prevent Door Frame Failure (Post Revisited - December 2009)

Back in 2008, we first posted about the fabulous Strikemaster II product. A product designed, manufactured and marketed by a colleague from North Carolina.

We have been continually selling and recommending this product for many years now, because it is one of the few products of it's kind that very inexpensively will repair your door after a door kick in without requiring you to replace the entire door and frame.

Below, find one of our first posts about this product and the original video that was made to explain it's features.

Over they last 10 years, we have installed hundreds of these products to customers who have suffered the heartbreak of door frame failure. I guess our clients love the fact that such a competitive priced American made product is widely available to correctly and professionally repair their door frames, without requiring they to spend significantly more for a new door and frame, that essentially will not protect them from similar attacks in future.



December 3, 2009

Strikemaster II Pro

This video shows exactly how and why the Strikemaster 11 product is essential to securing homes and residences. This particular video is almost 4 years old and the price displayed there is incorrect.

The new Strikemaster 11 Pro product is an improvement to the design of this fantastic product and is available now. Whether you decide to order it direct from the manufacturer or through any of their dealers, the price is identical.

We expect stocks of the newer model in about 3 weeks time.

We previously talked about the Strikemaster 11 in March 2008.

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A list of our articles about this product and similar offerings can be viewed here.

Post Revisited - November 25, 2008 - Safes - How To Choose

The post below was first published here November 25, 2008 and has racked up a great many views during that time.

Explaining the attributes of safes can be a chore to the uninitiated. The CDOJ (California Department Of Justice) put together their own list of attributes to consider when purchasing a safe.

Today, many of the items advised herein, still apply, It is up to the end user to decide for themselves, the attributes required to suit their individual needs...

Pictured above is just a random image selected online of a safe.

Choosing a safe is often difficult. 

I have been asked many times over the years to make a recommendation to customers wishing to purchase a safe.

Before making a recommendation, I feel it necessary to ask some specific questions to a customer to help in determining a suitable product to recommend.

Many people do not understand the ratings systems for safes, probably because there is no written industry standard.

In the early 1990's, I worked for one of Australia's oldest manufacturers of quality safes, Kelly Safe Co PTY LTD. (they closed down in 1995, I believe). Kelly safes were considered a staple of the Australian landscape for about 100 years previously. They manufactured impressive quality safes for many of Australia's institutions, banks, high-society clubs, hotels etc.

The increasing competition from foreign products combined with the significant increase in raw materials cost, saw Kelly become less competitive in later years.

I learned much from my short time with them about how to grade safes.

There are many classifications of safes that are determined by each individual country/locallity as suitable for local conditions. The leading tester in the world (most respected) is known as the Underwriters Laboratory.

The questions I like to ask my clients are:

1. What approximate cash value of personal documents, jewellery, bank notes etc are you looking to secure?

This determines what grade of safe would be suitable for the contents.

2. Approximately how big (dimensions) would the individual pieces of content be for storage?

This determines the necessary internal dimensions of the recommended safe.

3. Are you looking for Burglary Protection, Fire Protection or both?

4. Would you prefer a bolt down facility, free-standing, on castors, wall-mount, floor mount, vault etc?

5. How much are you looking to spend?

The most important question is question #1, because this separates the designations of safes from each other and directly guides a professional to make the most suitable recommendation.

In California, the CDOJ (California Department Of Justice) uses the following terms:


California Department of Justice Burglary Rating (CDOJ)
Regulatory Gun Safe StandardsDOJ regulatory standards require a gun safe to meet either: 
All of the following requirements:

1. Shall be able to fully contain firearms and provide for their secure storage.
2. Shall have a locking system consisting of at minimum a mechanical or electronic combination lock. The mechanical or electronic combination lock utilized by the safe shall have at least 10,000 possible combinations consisting of a minimum three numbers, letters, or symbols. The lock shall be protected by a case-hardened (Rc 60+) drill-resistant steel plate, or drill-resistant material of equivalent strength.
3. Boltwork shall consist of a minimum of three steel locking bolts of at least ½ inch thickness that intrude from the door of the safe into the body of the safe or from the body of the safe into the door of the safe, which are operated by a separate handle and secured by the lock.
4. Shall be capable of repeated use. The exterior walls shall be constructed of a minimum 12-gauge thick steel for a single-walled safe, or the sum of the steel walls shall add up to at least .100 inches for safes with two walls. Doors shall be constructed of a minimum of two layers of 12-gauge steel, or one layer of 7-gauge steel compound construction.
5. Door hinges shall be protected to prevent the removal of the door. Protective features include, but are not limited to: hinges not exposed to the outside, interlocking door designs, dead bars, jeweler’s lugs and active or inactive locking bolts.

or All of the following requirements:

1. Is listed as an Underwriters Laboratories Residential Security Container;
2. Is able to fully contain firearms;
3. Provides for the secure storage of firearms.

BURGLAR SAFES:
Burglar safes are usually made of solid steel plate or a combination of solid steel and composite fill material such as concrete. These safes are divided into categories based on the level of protection delivered and the testing endured. Here we will discuss only seven classes: B-Rate, U.L. RSC Rating, B/C Rate, C-Rate, U.L. TL-15, U.L. TL-30 and TL-30 X6.

B-RATE SAFES (ALSO U.L. RSC, RESIDENTIAL SECURITY CONTAINERS):
B-Rate is a catchall rating for essentially any box with a lock on it. The safe industry had an unwritten standard of ¼ inch body, ½ inch door. As steel prices (and shipping costs) increased manufacturers tried many things to reduce their costs. No tests are given to provide this rating. When buying a B-rate safe, look at things such as lock work, hard plates, and relocks.
U.L. Residential Security Container rating (RSC) - This UL rating is based on testing conducted for a net working time of five minutes, on all sides, with a range of tools. See U.L. TL-15 and TL-30 descriptions below for "net working time" description.

B/C-Rate Safes

This is a catchall rating for safes with at least a 1/4" steel body, 1/2 inch door PLUS additional 10 or 12 guage metal layers where composite fire resistant material is also deployed. No tests are given to provide this rating. Look at the lock work, relocks and other features when making your decision.

C-Rate Safes

This is defined as a ½ inch thick steel box with a 1-inch thick door and a lock. As before, NO tests are given to provide this rating. Look at the lock work, relocks and other features when making your decision.


The Underwriters Laboratory information:
Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (UL) Ratings
http://www.ul.com

TL-15

Safes given a U.L. TL-15 rating have all passed standardized tests defined in UL Standard 687 using the same tools and usually the same group of testing engineers.Construction Requirements

• U.L. listed Group II, 1 or 1R combination lock.
• 750 lbs. minimum or comes with instructions for anchoring in a larger safe, concrete blocks or on the premises where used.
• Body walls of material equivalent to at least 1" open hearth steel with a minimum tensile strength of 50,000 P.S.I.
• Walls fastened in a manner equivalent to continuous 1/4" penetration weld of open hearth steel with minimum tensile
  strength of 50,000 P.S.I.
• One hole 1/4" or less, to accommodate electrical conductors arranged to have no direct view of the door or locking mechanism.

The label means that the safe successfully resisted entry (i.e. opening the door or making a 6" square opening entirely through the door or front face) for a NET working time of 15 minutes using "…common hand tools, drills, punches hammers, and pressure applying devices." Net working time means simply "when the tool comes off the safe the clock stops". There are over fifty different types of attacks that can be used to gain entrance into the safe. Usually they will try only 2 or 3 based on what they know about the product, and they know a lot.

TL-30

Construction requirements are identical to the TL-15 above. Tests are essentially the same as the TL-15 tests except for the net working time. Testors are allowed 30 minutes and a few more tools (abrasive cutting wheels and power saws) to help them gain entrance. The label signifies the testors were unable to open the door or make a 6" square opening entirely through the door or front face within 30 minutes. Keep in mind these engineers have the manufacturing blue prints and can disassemble the safe being tested before the test begins to see how it works. They know their stuff. TL-30 x 6 - The TL-30 (30-minute) test is conducted on all six (6) sides of the safe.

Other Considerations

When you begin the search for a safe it is a good idea to speak to your insurance agent and see if a particular type of safe will reduce your insurance costs. Many times you can justify the additional expense of a higher security safe because of the premium reduction. Remember no safe is burglar proof, you are buying time. The longer it takes to break in the greater the chance to be caught, and thieves don’t like to get caught.

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10 Things You Didn't Know About UL's Safe Testing

1. The best safecrackers in the business never steal a penny. They work for UL.
   
2. UL has been testing and certifying safes for more than 80 years. The first safe tested for burglary resistance was in 1923 and the first bank vault in 1925.
   
3. Chisels, wenches, screwdrivers, power saws, cutting torches, crowbars, abrasive cutting wheels, jackhammers, even specified amounts of nitroglycerin are just a few of the "tools" UL technicians use during a safe attack. The idea is to test safes to worst-case scenarios. They use tools that could be found at any construction site or hardware store. They also analyze blueprints as if the burglar might have blueprints of the design and attack its weakest points to evaluate the safe for certification.
   
4. UL's safe attack tests are conducted by a two-person crew. The object is to create an opening large enough to withdraw "valuables" (anywhere from 2- to 6-square-inches on a safe and up to 96-square-inches on a vault), activate the locking mechanism so the door opens or to cut as many bolts from the door as necessary to pry it open before the time specified in the rating requirement expires.
   
5. Safes are rated for their resistance to attack against specific tools for a set period of time. There are a dozen different ratings, everything from ATM machines, to gun safes to bank vaults. For example, a safe that bears a Class TRTL-15X6 rating, which might be found in a jewelry store, should resist a hand tool and torch attack for a minimum of 15 minutes. A TRTL-30X6-rated safe, which would protect important documents or store money, should withstand an attack for 30 minutes. The ultimate safe rating-a TXTL60-should withstand an hour's worth of attack that includes the use of 8 ounces of nitroglycerin.
   
6. Because of the size and weight of certain safes and vault doors, it is not always practical to have the product shipped to UL's laboratory locations. UL's burglary protection staff has traveled to destinations such as Japan, France, Israel, England, Finland, Taiwan and India.
   
7. In addition to burglary protection ratings, UL also rates safes for their fire resistance protection. Class 350 safes protect paper documents, Class 150 safes protect magnetic tape and photographic film, while Class 125 safes protect floppy disks. In addition to the Class Rating, safes obtain an hourly rating for fire resistance-anywhere from 30 minutes to four hours.
   
8. Another cool test UL runs on safes is an impact test. This test simulates a safe falling though multiple stories of a building-resulting from a fire that has weakened the structure. After the safe is heated to 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit in a furnace, it's raised three stories and dropped onto a pile of bricks. In order to meet the requirement, the safe can't pop open. Temperatures inside can't rise to above 300 degrees Fahrenheit and sample papers left inside have to be readable.
   
9. The specialized suits you sometimes find technicians wearing are not just for show. Their entire ensemble, including protective coat, helmet and gloves, protects the crew against the adverse effects of sparking. After all, safety can't be taken for granted, even within the walls of UL.
   
10. Safes are just one of the 19,000 product categories that UL tests and certifies. While UL's burglary protection team cracks combinations, shatters glass and fires .44-caliber bullets at body armor, other UL engineers and technicians keep busy testing everything from TVs, coffee makers and holiday light strings to fire extinguishers, medical CAT scan equipment and building materials.

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Post Revisited - August 20, 2007 Lock Bumping By Master Lock

A little over 11 years ago we posted the following article here in our blog.

Since then, a great many products have come and gone from the marketplace, claiming to be bump proof, bump resistant, pick proof, pick resistant etc.

Unfortunately, ensuing years have proven many of these claims to be untrue, except for the leading Australian designed Bilock Extreme Security, bump proof and virtually pick proof high security key and lock system, among few others including Abloy and in later years Multilock MT5.

The advent of many electronic lock products has not prevented many of them being vulnerable to bumping or picking and many customers still appear to be accepting the advice of untrained and unknowing sales assistants at leading big box hardware stores over the tried and true experience of the second oldest profession on Earth - Locksmiths. 


August 20, 2011

Latest Bumping Video from Master.







Bilock is the only fully 100% guaranteed bump proof pin tumbler lock cylinder available. Bilock has been available since 1980's with technology that is many years ahead of others.

Locks210.com is a proud Bilock Extreme Security exclusive dealer.


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Language Barriers Once An Issue Of The Past, Are Simplified And Eradicated With Google Translate

Multiculturalism has become a very large and important part of society and business life today, with a great many people living here and across the world who may speak little to none of the native language of the land.

I was called to a client last Friday, to survey and estimate for a door and lock repair project, where the customer who had filled out the online lead form, obviously didnt understand much English.

I contacted them immediately (as i try to do with all leads) and noticed the difficulty in understanding them and they in understanding me.

By speaking very slowly and enunciating my words, I was able to get my message across and determine some of their needs. I arranged a suitable time (in the following hour) to attend and provide a free onsite survey and estimate, like we offer to all our clients.

Upon arrival, ringing the door bell and waiting, the clients daughter answered the door and invited me in.

She spoke very little English and after a few minutes I managed to get her to tell me that she was Nepalese. She pointed me in the direction of the project request and toward her father and mother.

The difficulty in communicating, to determine their needs was perplexing until I remembered that Google produced a fabulous app, a few years ago called Google Translate.

Having traveled abroad, a number of times in recent years and me not speaking the native language of some of my destinations, I have successfully used the Google Translate app on my cellphone a great number of times. From reading menus to understanding street signs, the Google Translate app has quickly become one of my most prized app's. I remember traveling from Italy, through Switzerland to France, a few years ago and we stopped over in Bern, Switzerland for a few hours while waiting to transfer trains. We decided to look for a bite to eat but very few of the signs had English translations, so understanding where to go and what to do was difficult without the app.

The app includes a microphone feature that enables you to speak in your language and it will automagically translate into the desired language for which you want to speak. Then you can play the translated phrases for your subject to hear and understand. they can then respond in their language, again into your cellphone and the app will translate into English. then I press the play button and a Google created synthetic voice will speak in English.

While abroad another time, we were staying in Madrid, Spain for a few days and wanted to go to the oldest restaurant in the civilized world, Sobrino de Botín and eat from their unique menu. The taxi driver that picked us up at the hotel, did not speak any English at all and I immediately pulled out my phone and spoke our request into the Google Translate app. When the driver heard the synthesized voice, he lit up and smiled and understood perfectly. he responded in Spanish and thanked us for introducing him to such a fabulous tool that would help him to earn substantially more money in future.

......back to the subject of the post here... the customer was able to communicate their needs in their native Nepalese and to understand my responses after translating from English.

We have arranged the project completion for next week and chalk up another satisfied client.


If you run your own show, or even if you dont, you will most likely run into communication issues in your life and sometimes your daily travels. using the Google Translate app will help you to communicate easily with almost anyone and provide top notch customer service for which you will be remembered and referred  because of. I highly suggest you download the app from your OS app store and start capitalizing on income opportunities from customers, whom in the past, you may have had difficulties talking to and with. 

Below find links to the app in Apple App Store and Google Play.


Google Translate For IOS

Google Translate For Android 

Post Revisited - How To Repair Door Closers

This post originally appeared in May 2009. It has become one of the most widely viewed posts on our website.

Repairing door closers is not too difficult, even if you are only slightly mechanically inclined.


Blogging often involves many labor intense hours of writing and researching, especially if you are composing your own original works.

I try to acknowledge the source of my reference in most if not all articles written here.

This next post is actually by well respected Author and Locksmith Tom Rubenoff and the source of this article is from Hubpages.

Door Closers

This article is primarily about surface mounted door closers, but the ideas herein can be applied to other kinds of door closers as well.

Door closer adjustment is an art that requires knowledge, patience, and an ability to climb up and down a ladder several times, but with these attributes and the appropriate wrench, hex key or screwdriver, you can do it yourself.

Most of the adjustments are implemented through the opening or closing of hydraulic valves. When it comes to turning the screws that operate these valves, a little goes a long way. A turn of 5 degrees can significantly increase or decrease closing speed.

CAUTION: DO NOT COMPLETELY UNSCREW DOOR CLOSER HYDRAULIC ADJUSTMENT SCREWS OR YOU WILL RUIN THE CLOSER AND VOID THE WARRANTEE.

Also, hydraulic fluid will leak out of the closer and make a mess. This will make you unpopular.

A door closer is a mechanical device designed to close a door slowly, but firmly enough to latch. It accomplishes this by using spring tension modulated by hydraulic fluid. As the user opens the door, hydraulic fluid passes from one reservoir to another, and as the spring pushes the door closed again, the hydraulic fluid passes back to the previous reservoir through a series of valves that control the speed.

The illustration at right shows the effects of the common hydraulic adjustment controls available on most commercial grade door closers. Controls for swing speed and latching speed control how fast the door closes, and many closers also feature a hydraulic control for back check that controls the last few inches of the opening the door so as to prevent the door from being slammed into an adjacent wall.

• Swing speed adjustment controls how fast the door closes from fully open to within about 5 degrees of closed
• Latching speed adjustment controls how fast the door closes for those last few inches
• Back check adjustment controls the amount of resistance to opening the door past a selectable point

The illustration below shows the various hydraulic control valves. These might be located in many configurations, but you will usually see the back check control located somewhat away from the latch speed and swing speed controls.

There are also door closers equipped with an additonal valve for Delayed Action. Delayed action closers hold the door open for a longer period of time to allow persons with disabilities more time to get through the door.

Also notice the Spring Tension Adjustment in the illustration above. Spring tension controls the "size" of a closer. The term is misleading, because it does not actually have anything to do with the physical dimensions of the closer. Size is determined by the width of a door. "Sized" closers, that is, closers that have a factory pre-determined spring tension for a particular door width, have no spring tension adjustment. Many door closers today are "non-sized", indicating that spring tension can be field adjusted to fit the size of the door.

It is tempting to use the spring tension adjustment to solve problems, for example, in positive pressure situations where air flow is preventing the door from closing properly. However, the tighter you make the spring, the harder it will be to open the door. It is possible to tighten the spring tension to the point that some people will not be able to open the door.

Adjusting the Door Closer

To adjust the door closer, bring a step ladder tall enough so that you can easily reach the door closer from the second or third highest step. Climb the ladder and examine the closer. If you can't see adjustment screws, chances are the closer has a cover. Usually the cover is plastic, but it could also be metal. If you see no fasteners holding the cover on, that means the cover is held on by tension. Pull it off. If you do see fasteners, usually you can loosen, but not remove, the fasteners and the cover will slide off.

If you find that there is oil in the cover or oil on or leaking from the closer body, you can stop right now. You need a new door closer. If, however, it is not leaking, you can proceed.

Now that you have the cover off, you should be able to see the adjustment screws. If you are lucky, they will be marked on the closer body as to what they are or there will be a diagram inside the cover. If not, you may have to experiment a little to see which is which. Remember, when it comes to turning door closer adjustment screws, a little goes a long way. Start with no more than 1/8 of a turn. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to slow the door closer down, counter-clockwise to speed it up. then get down off the ladder and observe the effect.

Open the door and watch it close. If it closes right the first time, check it 10 more times. If it closes correctly every time, you're done. If not, go back up the ladder and make another adjustment, etc., until the closer is doing what you want it to do. When it closes the way you want it to 10 times in a row, it will probably continue to do so.

Ideally a non-delayed action door closer will close and latch the door in 7 to 8 seconds.

Problems

If you expect a door closer to consistantly close the door, as a prerequisite the door must close properly. If there is a hinge problem, a warped door, or the door must swing uphill to close, a door closer will only go so far in solving the problem. Sometimes a door must be repaired before it will close and lock automatically with a door closer.

In vestibule conditions, where you have an exterior door, a small space, and then an interior door, the trapped air between the inside and outside door can be a factor. You may have to adjust both closers to get both to work correctly. Wherever air pressure is a factor, including negative or positive pressure situations, I have have gotten door closers to close and latch the door consistantly by adjusting them to a slow swing speed and a somewhat fast latch speed. The slow swing speed seems to give the air a chance to get out of the way and the fast latch speed gives it a very slight slam at the end to make sure it latches.

Trouble Shooting

• If oil is leaking from your door closer, throw it away and buy a new one.
• If your door closer is slamming the door and cannot be adjusted to do otherwise, either the fluid has leaked out or the valve seals are worn out. Either way, your best option is to replace it.
• If the closer stops closing the door before it's closed all the way, or actually spings back when you try to manually shut the door, the arm is probably installed on the shaft incorrectly. Download the instructions from the door closer manufacturer's web site and see if it is installed correctly.
• If the arm makes noise and bounces up and down while the door is in motion, tighten the fasteners that hold the arm to the closer, to the header, and at the knuckle that holds the two parts of the arm together.
• If the door closer has no spring tension and the spring tension adustment turns round and round with no effect, the spring is broken the door closer must be replaced.

More about Tom Rubenoff

Kwikset Smartkey Problems.... (Update)

8/23/2018 UPDATE: We just updated the video above to a better video from our colleague Terry Whin-Yates.

The original post, including many comments from viewers can be found here.

The post in the link above is by far, the most popular and frequently viewed post on this website.




Came across an interesting blogpost today that has several comments by product users, all complaining about similar problems shortly after installing Kwikset Smartkey locks.

One such comment by a poster....

"Our smartkey failed this evening. We locked both deadbolt and door as we left, came home to locked out. I called kwikset and after working with them on the phone trying to wiggle the key to the 1/4 turn position to try and get it to the learn position – nothing worked. The customer support person said since we had keys duplicated using the grinding method instead of having a locksmith stamp them out the keys had made the cams in the lock out of alignment. I asked CS how we will get in if we are on the OUTSIDE wanting in and he said we would have to either find another way in or drill out the cylinder. They are sending a replacement cylinder. No thanks – I don’t want to take the chance."

Another...

"My husband just bought this and installed it yesterday. While “rekeying” to our key, it stopped working! Now both the key that came with it doesn’t open the door nor the new key. I was looking for the company’s website for troubleshooting the problem and found this! Glad we kept the receipt as this installation is not continuing! Thank you all for commenting! You are saving more people from getting ripped off with this lock!"

Another...

"What a nightmare.My baby boy moves out to his first house and buys the kwikset smartkey to assure his security.comes home one night,pouring down rain and 28 degrees outside cant get in the house the key doesnt fit the lock .He has to sleep out in the car all night long.what a nightmare.never again will a smartkey be bought especially $80.00.there needs to be a recall on the kwikset smartkey.what a let down."

Another...

"What a joke, installed YESTERDAY, worked perfectly fine until coming home today with groceries and a 6 month old, to find out our key no longer worked. Was told by customer service that this is NOT an issue and people do not have this problem (Obviously I told him to check this website, because he was wrong)

Option one, I can take the deadbolt off my front door to bring to Home Depot and have them fix the lock, which would leave my house unsecure as there would be NO lock on my door. The other option is to wait 5-7 days for a new lock from them. He said the new lock they will send me is more efficient then the one month old lock already installed and he guarantees it will not have this problem.

In the meantime, how the heck am I supposed to get in and out of my house if my lock doesn’t work?

WHAT A JOKE! Take these stupid things offffff the market"

Another...

" I received the new smart key cylinder from

Kwieset and installed it on the front door. From the get-go I had problems, only some of the existing keys worked. Bought new keys and they seemed to work better for a short time. Now they are giving me problems. I have to jiggle them inside the lock to unlock the door and even now they are giving me problems. Finally I had enough: no trust in the lock and never knew when I would be locked out again. I took the smart key cylinder out and installed the old lock, which is a non smart key. At least now I have peace of mind that it will always work. I am keeping the old smart key locks, because I know with all the problems that everybody is having, there has to be a recall and maybe I can get my money back, but I will not hold my breath. Keep complaining to Kwikset about the so called smart key. I wasn’t very smart to buy it in the first place."

Many people seem to think that locksmith services are too expensive. In fact locksmith services are often cheaper than purchasing the DIY products from the big box hardware stores, because locksmiths have taken the time and training to master their product lines. Installation, service, maintenance all taken care of by a true technician with experience in the field.

I understand the perception that DIY is often cheaper, but realistically the locksmith (one of the oldest professions) has deliberately trained to service, advise and protect consumers from the poor advice and suggestions often received at the big box stores from untrained, unknowing part time sales assistants.

I regularly see both Kwikset Smartkey and Schlage Securekey products in the field. Often they are purchased by consumers at the big box hardware stores because most locksmiths refuse to stock them.

I can easily reset the tumblers for clients, often because they have lost the reset tool for the Kwikset or are simply unaware that the process is uncomplicated. The Schlage Securekey is a little more complicated process to re-key, but this is because many customers no longer have access to the blue reset key.

For the better (and often cheaper) products, visit your local locksmith today and find out the why's and how's behind purchasing suitable functional and correct locking systems and products.

See also Kwikset Smartkey Locks - Making Keys

Kwikset Smartkey Fault

Lockwood 7444 Keyed Pocket Door Lock - Inventory Dwindling

Perhaps our best selling product of the last 8 years, the Lockwood 7444 Keyed Pocket Door Lock and it's siblings, the 7410, 7400 and 7450, Privacy, Passage and Passage Latching versions continue as an in-demand and sought after offering that is easily installed and aesthetically pleasing.

The simplistic design allows for easy modification of a standard 2-3/8" (60mm) backset prep, with a standard 2-1/8" (52mm) cross bore hole.

The two connecting screws are stainless steel self-tapping screws that carve the threads in the outer casing for a solid/tight fit, requiring little to no maintenance over time.

As with any hardware product you install, natural movement of your house will effect how your doors move and lock/operate. It is important to periodically maintain your products to ensure continuous normal operations.

Take a look at the animated installation video and a marketing video that explain the products and the simple installation procedure, at our sister site locksmiths-st-louis.

Competitively priced and fast shipping ensure you receive product quickly.

Click on the picture at top left of this page to purchase and/or learn more.

Sinji - A Competitive Option To Ring

Sinji Wireless Doorbell and Camera System offers alternative to the Ring doorbell system.

This inexpensive alternative differs from Ring because it is not taking video and consuming significant storage.

We have reported about Ring products a number of times in recent years

This product is quite different in that it takes a snapshot of the door bell ringer and sends it over your home wifi system to users of an app.

Storage of pictures occupies significantly less storage than you need using the Ring product, yet offers similar security, albeit for much more competitive prices.

• Keep tabs on who comes to your door straight from your smartphone via app
• Easily install w/ zero wiring or professional installation required
• Monitor visitors at all hours w/ night vision support
• Anti-theft device alerts you if the doorbell is tampered with

Specs

• Dimensions: 3.3"H x 2.2"L 0.5"W
• Infrared night vision
• Snapshot function when bell is pressed
• Fully wireless
• Easy-install
• Resolution: 408 x 320
• Transmission distance: 98'
• Image sensor: 1/4 CMOS
• Lens: 80°, F2.8 aperture
• Power supply outdoor unit: 2 x AAA battery
• Power supply indoor unit: EU plug 100V-240V AC
• Outdoor transmission: 2.4G RF
• Indoor transmission: RF + WiFi

Compatibility

• Works with various IP camera apps, including Eye4 and EyeCloud
• Eye4 app requirements: iOS 8.0 or later; Android: varies with device
• EyeCloud app requirements: iOS 8.0 or later; Android 4.4 or later

Includes

• Outdoor unit
• Indoor unit
• User manual

Shipping

• Ships To Contiguous US
• Expected Delivery: Sep 13 - Sep 16

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